Forget too-cool-for-school ceviche spots, Paladar brings a slice of the real South America to south of the river

Fresh-faced flavour: confit pork belly served with soft mini-tortillas and garnishes of salsa and chilli
Ben Norum20 March 2018

The St George’s Circus interchange midway between Lambeth North and Elephant & Castle stations might feel like an odd location for an ambitious, slickly designed restaurant serving a pan-South American menu. But considering the neighbouring areas of Kennington and Vauxhall are among those with the highest population of Latin Americans in London, perhaps it makes good business sense.

Paladar was certainly scattered with a good number of hispanic expats on our visit, drawn by the promise of some home-style comfort food in the same way Londoners from different backgrounds will be lured by the promise of something different.

Whatever your origin, it would be hard to be disappointed.

From the more familiar, such as empanadas filled with slow-cooked beef brisket and a sprightly coriander and chilli sauce to smoky grilled octopus served with tempura breadfruit and a sweet-sour combo of candied lime and red onion, dishes zing with fresh-faced flavour.

Other highlights include a texture-rich tuna tartare served with quinoa and crunchy taro crisps and rich confit pork belly served with soft mini-tortillas and garnishes of salsa and chilli.

Flavours and influences span the length of South America, and the wine list impressively matches. The range includes more than 40 bottles from the region, with Brazilian fizz, and options from Mexico, Peru and Uruguay sitting alongside the more common haunts of Chile and Argentina.

Peruvian pisco, Colombian gin, Brazilian cachaca, and plenty of rums, tequilas and mezcals bolster the drinks offer.

This might not be the first very good South American restaurant in town, but it’s the first I can think of that successfully combines a slick setting and creative cooking with such a genuinely homely vibe. Forget your too-cool-for-school ceviche spots, this is a slice of real South America, served up by those who know it best