Full bloom in marvellous Madeira: Why Portugal's great Atlantic island may be the tropical garden capital of Europe 

  • Madeira is an intriguing option for winter sun, set due west of Morocco
  • This Portuguese island is home to a glorious array of manicured gardens
  • The Belmond Reid's Palace Hotel is one of the isle's accommodation icons

The most famous of Portugal's Atlantic islands, Madeira is truly a gardener's heaven. Perched on windowsills or on steps up to the doors of even the tiniest houses, flowers are a constant welcome to visitors. And in such variety.

The semi-tropical climate means that you are as likely to see an African flame tree, a jacaranda or a popcorn bush as a lupin or a hollyhock. Diversity and colour are saluted, restraint abandoned — so the gardens are spectacular.

I was guided by Lisbon-based landscape architect Dr Gerald Luckhurst, author of 2010 book The Gardens Of Madeira. Here is his pick of the bunch...

A view to warm the soul: Reid's Palace Hotel is Madeira's undoubted accommodation icon

A view to warm the soul: Reid's Palace Hotel is Madeira's undoubted accommodation icon

Belmond Reid's Palace Hotel 

This was our starting point, as it is arguably Madeira's most iconic landmark and Gerald helped to design its gardens. Paved with pebbles, the terraced garden was the vision of hotel founder William Reid.

'I used to think that cacti and succulents were something small boys collected — but since working in this climate, I have realised what beautiful forms they have,' says Gerald, showing me a crown of thorns set off by towering agapanthus.

The garden is peaceful and soothing, with a palate of soft greys to complement the hotel's silvered sage shutters.

Take a seat: Reid's Palace offers a certain style and elegance - as well as its fine gardens

Take a seat: Reid's Palace offers a certain style and elegance - as well as its fine gardens

Quinta da Boa Vista 

High above red tiled roofs, a shabby green door in a crumbly wall transports us into Madeira's orchid farm. Originally a vegetable and then a flower farm, Boa Vista is run by Patrick Garton, whose late father, Group Captain Cecil Garton OBE, was British Consul in Madeira and founded the orchid garden in the Sixties.

Long staircases with Spanish moss and steep paths flanked by bromeliads and hibiscus lead to the glass houses.

Inside, rare orchids bloom under swathes of jade vine so luminously turquoise it looks artificial.

A star on its slope: Madeira's Botanical Garden is one of the best reasons to visit the island

A star on its slope: Madeira's Botanical Garden is one of the best reasons to visit the island

Botanical Garden 

Behind tall, iron gates in a faded ochre wall lies a handsome old mansion, a late 19th-century cream house with dark-green shutters — today home to a natural history museum.

The garden is divided into five parts and is known for its formal mosaiculture — or carpet bedding — an ornate purple and green patchwork with views over the city of Funchal.

There is also a fruit and veg garden, where medicinal plants grow alongside mangos, coffee, papayas and custard apples. Paths are cobbled with stones from the riverbed and lead to other delights — a shady glade full of towering blue flowers; a prickly pear garden ablaze with Mexican colour.

Lush and lovely: Monte Palace Tropical Garden is a haven of colour and scents

Lush and lovely: Monte Palace Tropical Garden is a haven of colour and scents

Monte Palace Tropical Garden 

Regarded among the most beautiful gardens in the world, these are so high that the best way of reaching them is by cable car.

They plummet away from a Gothic structure housing African sculpture and an impressive gem and mineral collection. Archways, rails, bridges and pagodas are a vibrant Chinese red, accentuating the lush green around them. Waterfalls tumble into pools and lakes.

The water keeps the air damp, allowing ferns, camellias, azaleas and hydrangeas to flourish. The gardens represent a combination of Asian culture (there are Terracotta Army figures among the trees) and contemporary art.

Palheiro Gardens 

These are the gardens that perhaps best represent Madeira's flamboyant soul. They are mainly the work of the Blandy family, who bought the estate in 1885 from the Count of Carvahal. The hotel now sits in its own Eden.

It was neglected until the Eighties, when Mildred Blandy's Swedish daughter-in-law Christina re-invigorated it.

'Christina likes serendipity, rather than colour plans,' explains Gerald as we walk amid jasmine, calendula, birds of paradise, azaleas, camellias, pansies, dahlias, foxgloves and roses.

Have tea in the Chinese-style tea house, visit the chapel, sit under a pergola swathed in wisteria and then stroll up the lawn for lunch at the hotel.

TRAVEL FACTS 

Gerald Luckhurst's next tour of Madeira is with Martin Randall Travel (martinrandall.com, 020 8742 3355). Join their Walking in Madeira — Garden Of The Atlantic tour, October 31 to November 5 2016, from £2,440 per person based on two sharing. It includes flights, five nights' B&B at Belmond Reid's Palace hotel, two lunches, three dinners with wine, admissions, drivers and guides. 

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